Loading...Friday, March 14, 2008
Sit-and-Go Essentials Part 4: Heads-Up
Once you get to the end game, you still need to seal the deal. This is part four of a four-part series outlining how an average poker player can take their sit-and-go game to the next level. Part four focuses on heads-up play.
In parts one, two and three of this series we went over the skills you need to put yourself in a position to play for the win. If you read those articles and apply the techniques properly, you'll absolutely find yourself playing for first a whole lot more than you have previously.
But once you get to the end game, you still need to seal the deal. You've learned all the tools; now you just have to apply them one-on-one. So our focus in part four is heads-up play.
Unfortunately, the way most sit-and-gos are designed online, by the time you get to heads-up play, the blinds are so big the game doesn't allow for much play. I hope you've accumulated some chips, because if the chips are even it will be a very tight match.
Neither player will hold much of an edge over the other because of the structure. The match usually comes down to whoever gets the best cards in the shortest period of time.
That's not to say it's completely out of your hands though; there is still room for you to exploit your edge.
Adjusting for Heads-Up Play
When you're heads-up, hand values change from what they were pre-flop. Depending on how aggressive your opponent is playing, it may be +EV to get any ace in pre-flop.
Think of it this way: if your hand is decent when the game is short-handed, then it's a monster heads-up. Pocket pairs are very robust. Hands are usually won with just one pair at showdown, so if you are dealt one before the flop then you're already ahead of the game.
Think of it this way: if your hand is decent when the game is short-handed, then it's a monster heads-up.
Hands that also increase in value are big broadway hands, like K-Q, K-J, Q-J, K-T, etc. - ones that when they hit the flop make top pair with a good kicker. Top pair is a massive hand heads-up and it's almost always worthy of getting all-in.
Hands that decrease in value are weak speculative hands, like low suited connectors. While they may be decent hands to raise with as a steal, they should not be played against a raise.
These hands dramatically drop in value when the stacks are short. Even if you flop a draw, there's little money to get paid off with. When they do hit the flop, they usually make weak second-pair type hands or gut-shot draws. Nothing you'd want to risk your tournament life on.
Here's an example:
You have $6,250 and so does your opponent. Blinds are $250/$500. You're in the small blind/button with J
-T
and raise to $1,800. Flop comes J-6-3
. Your opponent bets $3,200.
You? Shove. That's it; that's all. This is the crux of heads-up poker in a sit-and-go: the blinds are too big and there's so little play that if you flop top pair, you're destined to get it all-in.
Another example:
You have $6,250 and so does your opponent. Blinds are $250/$500. You have Q-J in the small blind/button and raise to $1,800. Your opponent calls. The flop comes down T-2-9. Your opponent checks and you bet $3,000. Your opponent shoves.
You? Call. You have two overcards and an open-ended straight draw. You only have $1,450 in your stack and there's $11,050 in the pot. To put it bluntly, you're pot-committed.
Luckily you have a massive draw and are getting great odds. It's hands like these your tournament will come down to.
You should of course, as always in poker, be exploiting your position to the max. Continue pushing hard when in position. Don't stop stealing or slow your aggression just because you're heads-up - the game is not over until it's won.
Anybody can be the one left standing behind the big check. Anybody. So stay on your toes and keep up the fight.
So stay on your toes and keep up the fight. Remember if you always make decisions as best you can, you'll make money in the long run no matter what happens in the short term. Just look long-term and always try and make the most +EV play you can.
* * * * * * * * * *
Well, that brings this four-part guide to becoming a sit-and-go champion to a close. It's by no means comprehensive - I wrote it for the average player who understands poker but wants to take their sit-and-go game to the next level.
I hope, though, it's given you enough information to go from merely playing sit-and-gos to understanding what it takes to be a serious winner.
If you have any questions or comments, don't hesitate to leave them at the bottom of the page.
More strategy articles by Dan Skolovy:
Comment(s) on this article
Eyeball Dag Nov 18, 2008
Every article I have read by Daniel Skolovy has taught me something, so thanks :)
Marcus Sep 29, 2008
I loved this article!
drapoel13 Jul 20, 2008
Silkroad,
I would recommend staying tight since the blinds are still small. Attempt to play more hands in position than out. But one thing I tend to find in these situations is that the BIGSTACK is either a maniac (to have obtained all those chips so quickly) and he throws them around too often, or he is a decent player that got lucky a couple times and he sits back and relaxes (as he/you should, unless you get a monster hand). HOWEVER, I find that the other players, if good, become way TOO tight and the bad players become way TOO loose. For some reason, against all of them, in this situation, I have found that if I am patient and raise my marginal to premium hands at weird increments (raising to 325 if blinds at 50/100; or 125 if 25/50) puts people off their game. See the flop, normally make a continuation bet (normally even only 30% of the pot takes it down) also at a weird number and the idiot that made an improper call preflop will make a correct or hopefully incorrect fold on the flop. If you get called, size up your situation and use your head.
To Dan,
I am curious about the same question when you are heads up or 3-handed when the blinds are still small (everybody's M was 14-21). I didn't really know how to play. I ended up winning but it wasn't as nice and neat and cut and dry as we all like.
Perhaps you can use your theoretical skills to answer this question (and possibly critique my stream-of-consciousness response to Silkroad above).
Ryan
Jimmy Jun 29, 2008
Ive read many articles relating to sit and gos online and this is by far the best, clear and concise one i have seen. Thanks for writing it.
Dave Apr 21, 2008
Yes, I've left somewhat critical comments, but I love this series. I've been playing STTs for a year now, plus a "big" home tournament where I do fairly well, but am "on the bubble" most of the time. This guide will really help me, I think! Thanks!
TheScientist23 Apr 15, 2008
I just want to say thanks for this great guide. I read these 4 articles, without ever playing 9 player SnG's before, and in 2 days have placed ITM 6 times out of 11 of the $1 + $.25 games I've joined (The times I've lost were because of stupid early decisions by me). What's better is that every time I've gotten In The Money, I've won first place.
So again, thank you very much!
Silkroad Apr 3, 2008
Exactly
The "short-handed while blind is low" situation happens a lot in low-limit sngs. I as a short stack didn't play well in these situations
Would appreciate if someone could propose a strategy that may work in these situations
amibeat Mar 24, 2008
Great information given here thats def. the way to play sngs.
dustbuster Mar 17, 2008
Good step by step break down.
one variable that i have been involved in a few times is after some early explosiveness and major 3 or 4 way confrontations, you can find sng's where there are 3 or 4 players left after just 1 or 2 levels. With this situation, a lot of things change because you basically have 3 guys with ~1500 and one monster (hopefully you) with like ~9,500.....
When this happens, and i've seen it a few times, a lot changes. Plays need to be craftier because the shove/fold theory is no longer necessary with blinds still small
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